Thursday, December 13, 2012

Panama - living in a postcard

As my Costa Rica visa is due to run out soon, Kate and I took a visa break to Panama. Basically we just have to leave the country then go back in to get a new visa stamp in our passports. As it is, of course, a very serious, practical and not at all fun affair, we headed to the Bocas del Toro archipelago, the backpackers party haven...

The journey was pretty heavy duty.... we went to Puerto Jimenez on Sunday and got a ferry across to Golfito the next morning. From there we got on a bus to Paso Canoas, the border between the two countries, which was VERY confusing. We had to sign out of Costa Rica at a window on one little building, then wander to another building (that wasn't signposted or anywhere near the first building) to sign in to Panama. From there we headed to the capital of Chiriqui province, David and navigated the bus station to get a ticket to Almirante, on the Carribean side of the country. We were on a sort of minibus that was so incredibly crammed it was nearly an art how they packed us in. I was getting to know the old lady next to me very well, and kate was facing backwards, snuggled between the driver and 2-person passenger seats! On arrival in Almirante, we decided to walk to the water taxi to the islands rather than get a taxi, and luckily William, from a water taxi company, rode up on his bike and led us all the way to the dock. I was relieved to have reached the islands in one day, and took in the beautiful and invigorating boat ride. Riding along the water (at a speed that made my cheeks flap about), was like looking at a postcard scene, or a cinematic nature documentary. The lush green islands break up a really clear, turquoise sea, with several mangrove patches and thatched wooden houses on stilts.

We'd decided to stay at Hostel Heike, because of good travel guide reviews and high praise from a previous member of staff, and we were not disappointed. The hostel is clean and functional, with a veranda and a really cool hangout, with computers and a balcony and all the people are really nice. There's drinking water and pancake mix in the kitchen in the morning that we can help ourselves to, and coffee available all day. The lady at reception is really friendly, although she was shocked to be handed English passports - she was convinced we were German!

Tuesday was our first full day, so we had a look around the town in the morning. Bocas is clearly and up and coming tourist spot but it's not been completely commercialised yet. Among the souvenir shops, bars and tour operators, are building sites and rickety wooden houses. It's very small with only a couple of main streets but nice. In the afternoon, we cycled to a beach called playa bluff. It was a nice 45 minute bike ride (some of it actually on a beach!) and a nice beach, although the sea was too rough to swim. In the evening we went for cocktails then for the most delicious pasta I've ever eaten, a crab fettuccine.

On Wednesday, we took a snorkeling boat trip around the islands. We stopped to look for dolphins, we didn't see any but we did see 5 sloths in the mangrove trees! we then snorkeled and saw lots of colourful corals, tropical fish and brittle stars. Then we went to red frog beach, had a swim in the sea and found some strawberry poison dart frogs, which were so bright. In the evening we had another delicious meal, then had a couple of drinks with lots of people from our hostel, who were all lovely. The group then went to a bar/club called Aqua Lounge, which was right over the sea and had little swimming pools outside. When we were there we met 3 guys we know from Osa Conservation too!



Thursday was our last full day, so this afternoon we headed to starfish beach at Boco del Drago, the other side of the island. The beach was very thin and grassy but the sea was lovely and calm, with lots of big starfish in the shallows. It's really awesome just paddling along and coming across a few starfish. There were also lots of fish in the shallows, swimming around our ankles. Although maybe an unusual holiday destination, Panama is beautiful and so idyllic it's ridiculous, but we're heading back to the equally beautiful Costa Rica tomorrow.

1 comment:

  1. Sounds like a lovely little break to a little more civilization. Also very jealous of the sound of the beaches! Happy Christmas!!! Hope it's not too odd for you xox

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